> On Wed, Aug 03, 2005 at 11:59:20AM +0900, Jun OKAJIMA wrote:
> > Probably, most guys here use BIOS Saver.
> > And it works well?
> > In mine, RD1 for PLCC gets not being writable suddenly.
> > I mean, it seems writable but # flash_rom -v fails.
> > I solved this problem by a quick hack.
> > How about yours? You can write RD1 or W49F002U well?
> > Any problem happen?
Johnathan McDowell wrote:
> Even after that it's sometimes a bit flakey and I have to erase, then
> write it. I've put the board's original BIOS in the RD1 and am writing
> to the SST 39SF020A instead, which works without problems.
I've read posts about the RD1 that suggest its integrated flash device
is low quality and it may take 10 or more flash attempts to get a good
flash update to the RD1 flash device.
As a result, many RD1 BIOS Savior users will flash the commercial
BIOS image (or other known good BIOS image) into the RD1 integrated
flash device as many times as needed to get an image that boots.
Then use the original BIOS device to flash test BIOS image (usually
LinuxBIOS images among this group), since the original BIOS device
usually flashes OK on the first attempt.
I've used the RD1 in the above fashion with great success on the
Tyan S2885 mainboard.
The same RD1 would not work on the nVidia CK8-04 CRB mainboard.
I think the CK8-04 CRB requires a flash device that the RD1 does
not support. However, the RD1 worked well as an "do nothing" adapter
which allowed swapping the BIOS flash device between my flash burner
and the mainboard without any wear to the mainboard's BIOS socket.
BTW, my flash burner is an older Enhanced Willem Universal Programmer.
I got mine for only $60 US over a year ago. I've seen it for less
than $40 on eBay a few weeks ago. The newest model is going for about
$50 US. It does a LinuxBIOS flash in about 5 minutes; not bad for a
$60 burner. However, it does require changing DIP switches to match
an image for each device it can program. Great for the amateur or
professional with a small budget.
> > BTW, a cable of your RD1 is not broken?
> > I needed soldering to fix it.
> Mine was fine out of the box.
Mine cable and switch worked fine out of the box as well.
Ken Fuchs <kfuchs(a)winternet.com> ami-mac-sun